Now that I’ve experienced it, I can recommend what my friend Eleanor routinely does when she returns to Paris for six months every year: she rides a subway or Metro line to the end, and follow that route back home on foot.
For my birthday weekend I walked through the Louvre, the L’Orangerie, and the Musee d’Orsay with Frank, and we walked the 20th arrondissement of Paris with Eleanor and her husband Leendert Walking or cycling through the side streets and small neighborhoods in an unfamiliar city can truly mean the difference between being a tourist or a traveller.
It’s okay to be a little bit of a tourist — I carry a camera, and had my photo taken with Frank in front of Monet’s waterlilies. But I draw the line at riding in tour buses, pushing to the front of the line, paying too much and tipping to little, and ordering beer or wine in English. I mean, how hard is it to learn “vin rouge, s’il vous plait“?
Of course you know the difference between tourists and travellers. Tourists are just there to see the highlights and get a photo or video, while travellers take a stab at the local language, relax in neighborhood coffee shops, drink beer in friendly pubs. They adapt to the pace of life wherever they are. Just ask Black Belt Cyd, who lost weight and inches in Berlin, even while she was scarfing down the beer and…the beer (I made up that second part, but I bet I’m right!) because she was walking, walking, walking in Germany every day.
You never really know a place until you’ve walked the streets, seen the expressions in people’s eyes, eaten where they eat, and bought bread where they buy theirs. And if you’ve been to Paris you know — that ubiquitous baguette in everyone’s parcel at the end of the day is something they pick up on foot.
Or should I say a pied?
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i use a combo of shea butter and aloe vera moisturizer. Works great. I use shea butter on my lips, around my eyes and nose (dry areas), My father swears by vasoline.
p.s. I dropped your name on Gina's post, Barb. ;)
I was in Paris for the first time in October to celebrate my 50th birthday. I love more than anything to absorb a new culture, to get a true feel for the people…and you’re so right about not knowing a place till you’ve experienced it by foot. I loved getting lost and then getting myself unlost. Before I left, people told me how I would find Parisians to be rude. That was not the case at all. They seemed to appreciate that I tried to speak French and were more than happy to accomodate my butchering of their beautiful language. I think they simply appreciated that I was trying…
The Metro was wonderful and a fantastic place to people watch.
Tamara – my birthday was in October, too! We were there the weekend of the 22nd. When were you there? Great minds think alike! I completely agree with you about trying to speak the language. In fact, that’s what today’s post is about! C’est vrai, ma belle amie! – laurie
We just missed you! We flew in on the 15th and left on the 18th! We didn’t have much time, but we sure packed in quite a bit. It only whetted my desire to head back, Next time I want to make it a longer voyage through more of France and England.
Wonderful wonderful Paris — lived in England for 22 years and had the good fortune to ‘have’ to take family friends to Paris about twice a year — and — my son went to school there -The American College – so spent time with him. He (being young and fearless) took me all over and I never felt uncomfortable.
To be fair to Americans — there was a time when the very word made Europe fiesty — . However, I’ve travelled all over — and have seen many Europeans behaving as badly or worse!!! As well as Asians. There are the travelling ‘uglies’ everywhere!!
I have said that travelling in a country is like being engaged — living there is like being married. While engaged tourists can be treated well, while married — you get to see the nitty-gritty of real life!!! I prefer the latter.
Have been to Paris in August during the ‘vacation shutdown’ and during a transportation ‘slowdown’ and it’s all part of the flora and fauna of travel!! There is ALWAYS something else to do — I usually relied on eating and walking.
Sounds like you had a great time — bravo you!!! M.
My husband and I were just in Paris (April 26 – May 6) and stayed in an apartment, a few blocks from Gare de Lyon. My husband is French Canadian so was able to chat with the locals in French. We had a boulangerie about 2 blocks from our apartment where we bought our crouissants and baguettes. We did a lot of the usual tourist things but also had dinner one night in the home of a French family. Staying in an aparmtment was the way to go for sure. We were in a non-tourist area and so could truely mix with the locals when we bought our food. It was an experience we’ll never forget.
OH, I am so jealous! I have wanted to go back to Paris…(On an open ended ticket!) rent an apartment or flat as they call them…and just stay till I’ve seen it all!!! I’m a little concerned about going single…but I’ve done a lot here alone…so why not! Any tips and advice gladly welcomed.
Paris is wonderful.
The only thing that can really wreck it is bad advice.
One of my favorite Paris bloggers takes a swipe at stupid travel tips at:
http://www.laurelzuckerman.com/2010/07/ten-things-not-to-do-in-paris-says-who.html
France and Paris are wonderful if you are willing to learn about the customs and culture. The french people are very warm and receptive to anyone really trying to know them. What they don’t like is tourists thinking they should speak their language or tourists making comments about how much better it is “at home” in a loud voice thinking that the “natives” don’t understand….
Totally agree to all of the above. We lived overseas for years and visited Europe as often as we could afford. My husband, who was a world traveler before we married, taught our family to blend.
1. Keep your voice down! There is nothing so embaressing overseas as seeing some loud fellow American who is usually perturbed about something. Another aspect is security. The world is generally a friendly place, but there is no sense in drawing attention to yourself as an American if you don’t have to.
For the thousands of Americans living overseas, connected to the Military, security is routinely taught on the bases and it goes along the lines of not wearing things that identify you as an American, not going into the city in large crowds of Americans. Remember – when you open your mouth overseas, everyone around you instantly knows “who” you are.
2. In Paris, we rented a 2 BR apartment for the 4 of us. Much more economical than a hotel, and space for all of us to spread out and relax at the end of each awesome but exhausting day. We walked to the metro. We shopped at the local small market down the street from our apartment. We went thru neighborhoods we never would have, getting to the metro and back each day.
3. Get Rick Steves guidebook for Paris and all Europe. The only way to go! I agree – you don’t want bad advice. You also don’t want to waste your precious time and money on seeing things that aren’t that great.
4. Spend at least a week, if you can. If you have a week in Paris, Rome, Provence, etc. you can really get to know the area, see most of the sights, have time to venture off the beaten track, and sometimes just be leisurely. There’s nothing wrong with tourist busses and boats! We did both in Paris, and that’s really the best way to see the major sights as an overview. Then you can pick the ones you want to get off and spend time at.
5. Take a warm jacket! I’ve been to Paris twice, and it may be (somewhat) warm on the ground, but standing in line (FOREVER) to see the Eiffel Tower can get cold when you stop moving so long. Then up to the first level – Freezing! Then there is a long wait for another elevator to go up further – very uncomfortable! That’s what I remember most about the Eiffel Tower, despite having a jacket. IT’S ALWAYS SO COLD.
I love travel!