How to create fused stained glass jewelry

It must be a kiln that will fire very high for fusing glass. Kilns range from all different prices and become very pricey for the large ones.

I have two electric kilns at Avalon Stained Glass School here in Munfordville, KY. One is a small to medium size kiln that originally was purchased for firing porcelain and china. However, this kiln went high enough to do small fused and slumped glass projects. The only problem I have with it is the fact that I cannot walk away from it. I have to use a small timer that tells me when to increase the temperature to the next level and that means tying up about 6 to 8 consecutive hours of my time once I fire up the kiln.

The other kiln is a very large kiln that is computerized so I can put my items into the kiln, hit the program button I want and then walk away from it for 19 hours. This is great, but it was expensive and really is not for the person that just wants to have a small hobby.

The last time we were at the annual stained glass expo in Las Vegas we saw a demonstration of how one could create stained or fused glass jewelry in one’s microwave. The problem we saw was that we would not want to use the same microwave for food that we might use to fuse glass. Plus at the 2008 expo they were only selling or demonstrating the containers that went inside the microwave and those containers were called fuse works microwave kilns and one could fire fusible and dichroic glass in as little time as 3 minutes!

Now a fused glass microwave is being marketed for the small hobbyist and it comes at an affordable price starting at $100.00 and one can create fused glass or copper enameled jewelry in this unit. This now becomes great for the beginner who wants to create great pieces without a great expense. However you still need a microwave that can fire to 2000 degrees. The last time I was in Wal-mart I saw one for about $70.00 that had a 2000 firing degree.

One does not need to know how to precisely cut stained glass since the glass is piled up in 2 to 4 layers in an abstract design and after fusing you will find you have a delightfully abstract, artist piece to work from. In the event one wants to have squares or rectangles in any size then one only needs to score a piece of glass into the size you want and you will usually need two pieces to lay one on top of the other. They do not have to be exactly the same size as they will fuse into one square or rectangle. However, they do need to be the same COE (co-efficiency of expansion) such as system 90, 96, 100, 103 etc or else mixing the different systems will cause the glass to crack and break.

Sound complicated? Well it is not. I just buy one system of glass and stay with it. The only time I deviate from this pattern is if there is an extra piece of stained glass from a project that I think I can use to make something I want in the kiln once I cut it up to have 2 or 3 layers then I know it will be the same COE regardless of what it is and I will use it.

We have students who want to try their skill at this before deciding whether or not it is a hobby for them to invest their time and money in. Since we offer a jewelry workshop that starts at $39.00 enabling them to create 3 pieces it is quite popular besides being an excellent value and fun.

I always suggest to students who decide that they want to start a money making hobby that they plan on how they might recoup their “seed” or start up money.

Let me give you an example:

Microwave purchase $75.00

Our fuse works start up kit which includes everything you need to make 6 pieces of jewelry. $139.00

Extra jewelry bails $ 3.00

Total investment $217.00

Fused or copper enameled jewelry usually retails at about $29.00 to $39.00. I encourage the student to do the same thing I do on any new project I am trying. I make 20 pieces that I price at my gallery price of $29.00 each and I then put them on sale for only $10.00 thus recouping my “seed” money on this type of project.

Now I have 20 documented sales under my belt. I have 20 “walking” around advertisements for my jewelry and future sales are usually at the gallery price.

I also suggest to the hobbyist that they sign, date and number each piece as each piece will truly become “one of a kind” work of functional, wearable art. One can even give a signed, dated and numbered Certificate of Authenticity with each piece that now puts you “a head above the crowd” in the jewelry field.

I hope this small article has given you enough information to pique your interest in what might be a new hobby. Should you have any questions feel free to ask and I will be more than pleased to try and answer them.

“Tread the Earth Lightly” and in the meantime… May your day be filled with…

Peace, Light and Love,

Arlene Wright-Correll

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